Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
